I am peeing in the house and you’re mad at me. I’m not doing it to be spiteful, I promise! I’m just feeling upset and stressed.

You see, I like my stuff. I need to have my own space. If I feel my territory is being threatened, I have this strong urge to mark it with my own scent. I’m like the kid who has to write his name on all his toys. I can’t use crayons, so pee will have to do.

Sometimes I do this because it hurts to whiz in my litter box. Perhaps I have bladder stones or an inflamed bladder. So please take me to the vet to have that checked out, before you assume I have a behavioural problem. And do it early. The longer I carry on this way, the harder it will be for my doctor to help us. Also, bladder stones can be fatal in cats!

If my veterinarian tells you I don’t have any medical problems, then think about what might be going on in my environment. Did you bring home a new pet, or a new boyfriend, or a baby? Did you move the furniture around, so home doesn’t look the same any more? Is there a neighbour’s cat coming to the windows, threatening to invade my personal space and steal my things?

Please don’t yell at me or hit me or rub my nose in the dirty spots. Please don’t dump me in the litter box when I’m doing it wrong. That will only make me more anxious.

You know cats are usually spotless. We don’t usually eliminate in the same spot over and over in the wild, and certainly not where other cats have peed. Help me do what’s actually unnatural for a cat, by keeping my litter box clean.  Don’t use ammonia or strong disinfectants that can burn my nose.

For that nasty tease at the window, why don’t you call its owners and tell them how upset I am. If the neighbours won’t help, keep the blinds closed so I can’t see their cat any more.  If my tormentor is a stray, please phone Animal Control or the Humane Society.

To make me like my litter box again, you can try a litter box additive called Cat Attract. Also, ask my vet about a great product called Feliway; it’s a pheromone with a “happy cat” smell that you can use in areas I’m stressed, to help calm me.

You might have to keep me out of the room I’ve soiled for a few weeks. Make sure you clean it with a special enzyme-based cleaner that doesn’t just mask the smell. I have a great nose and can smell things that you can’t.

If all this doesn’t work, I might need special medication, until I get used to the changes in our home. I only need to be on it a little while, don’t worry (we both know how I hate taking pills!).

Please don’t book that appointment to have me killed before you at least give everything a try.

Do give me extra attention and love. Introduce me slowly to new additions to your family. It takes me some time to get used to changes. I love you, and although I will learn to share you, of course I don’t want to at first!

Thanks for your patience and understanding. I know we can work this out.

Love,   
Felix

www.animalbehavior.org
marvistavet.com
VetMedicine.com

Mrs. Brown, who owns a cat named Hurley, thinks I’m an idiot.

She felt Hurley did not need any pain medication after his surgery. I told her that castrating a cat is a painful procedure and, in my opinion, Hurley should have some.

Mrs. Brown (not her real name) retorted that her previous dogs and cats did not get anything for pain after being spayed and neutered, so why should Hurley? She thought it was ridiculous that I was prescribing something for her to give him after he got home.

Yes, until fairly recently, vets did not recommend post-op analgesics for animals. Our profession wrongly felt that our patients did not feel pain. Or at least not to the extent that humans do.

We were wrong. Science has shown us that. Studies have been done to prove that animals do feel pain. And why not? They have the same anatomical structures that we have. They have nerves, blood vessels, skin, a heart, lungs, livers, and so on. How could we think that they were so anatomically and physiologically similar to us and yet not feel what we do?

I remember the old days when my patients would have “stormy” anesthetic recoveries. They would thrash or vocalize. We assumed it was the anesthetic and that they were just hallucinating. However, when we started instituting better pain management protocols for our surgical patients, we noticed that these kinds of wake-ups became less common. In hindsight, those pets were in pain!

One of the things that convinced me animals are more uncomfortable after surgery than we realize was a “hidden video” shown to my staff and I by a pharmaceutical representative. The video showed two dogs after a routine surgery. One was given pain medication, one was not. Both were wagging their tails and appeared happy whenever someone came into the room. However, when no one was around, the video showed a different story. The dog who had received medication slept peacefully throughout the night but the dog that did not get any was restless and obviously uncomfortable. That video made a strong impression on all of us.

I asked one of my friends, who had a vasectomy, if he was sore after the procedure. He told me not at first, but once the drugs that had been given at the clinic wore off, the pain was horrible. He was glad to have some oral medication to take for the first few days. Castrating a cat is certainly a bigger procedure than a vasectomy, in my opinion, so how can we say they won’t hurt after the surgery? Why shouldn’t they have something to make them feel better too?

I don’t think the rationale that we used to do things a certain way is a good reason to continue to do so. Years ago cats were castrated by sticking their heads into a rubber boot and cutting their testicles off without any anesthetic. Yes, it was done that way and yes, it worked. But it was cruel.

Perhaps in some cases we may be overmedicating, but I would rather err on the side of caution than to let an animal feel pain. A dog and cat will not tell us it is feeling badly. Animals have been programmed to hide signs of pain as a survival mechanism. Survival of the fittest is the way of the wild. Our pets have retained that instinct.

I am pleased to say veterinary medicine has evolved and that we are learning how to do better on an ongoing basis. We are now at a point where we can offer the same level of care that we receive for ourselves.

Dogs and cats can now get pre-emptive pain medication. This means we give them something even before we start the procedure, to prevent windup pain. If we give the medication before the nerves are given a stimulus to “make them angry,” they do not react as much and we do not have to give as high of a dose post-op to calm them (the nerves) down. And, the drugs are already in effect when the patient wakes up.

Veterinarians are also using multi-modal pain management. We can use NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), local anaesthetics, and narcotics to give better effect than any of these pharmaceuticals given alone. Our patients are much more comfortable once they wake up and their anesthetic recoveries are very smooth.

Hooray for progress.

For his neuter surgery, Hurley got a mild narcotic and an NSAID as pre-op injections. I also infused some local anesthetic into his incision, to provide six to eight hours of “freezing,” so he would feel OK when he woke up. I prescribed an additional few days of pain medication, to make sure he was also comfortable once he went home. I’m not sure if Mrs. Brown gave it to him, and I lost a client by advocating for Hurley, but at least I did what I thought was right.

note: Not all veterinarains feel the same way about pain medication for pets. Some feel the same way Mrs. Brown does. Others may give medications after the surgery, but none beforehand as pre-emptive pain management. Make sure you ask before you assume your pet is getting what it needs and deserves. Not all clinics practice the same level of medicine. And unfortunately, some clinics offer inexpensive spays and neuters because they’re doing something to cut costs.

Q: Someone at work told me their cat died on Friday under anesthetic. How common is that? Do they offer anesthetic screening with cats, or just dogs? If so, how common is that screening and how expensive is it?

A: My sympathies to your co-worker and to anyone who has had an animal die under an anesthetic.

Fortunately, anesthetic deaths are pretty rare in most veterinary practices. Statistics seem to indicate that an animal is more likely to die in an accident in its owner’s car on the way to the hospital than under an anesthetic. However, there is always a small risk with any anesthetic, and things can go wrong. The patient might have a congenital heart problem that is not evident on a physical exam, or an animal might react unpredictably to the anesthetic agents. Or sometimes there is human error; even the best anesthesiologist might make a mistake at some time in his or her career.

How frequent are anesthetic deaths? Dr. Doris Dyson, an anesthesiologist at the University of Guelph, found 2.1 per cent of dogs and 1.3 per cent of cats undergoing anesthesia experienced complications. Only 0.1 per cent actually died. Dyson obtained these statistics in a prospective study of 66 small-animal practices; she published the results in 1993 in the Journal of the Animal Hospital Association.

A lot has changed in the field of veterinary anesthesia since then. I suspect the incidence of deaths is now significantly lower. What has changed? For one, we use much safer drugs. Our sedatives and anesthetics are better than ever. For example, years ago, vets used to use long-acting barbiturates. These have many side effects and a narrow margin of safety. Anesthetic deaths were more common with their use, and it used to take pets days or weeks to recover.

I don’t personally know any veterinarians who use this anesthetic any more. (Caution:  if you choose a really “cheap” clinic for your pet’s surgery, there’s a chance they’re using inexpensive but dangerous anesthetic agents.) Many of us use isoflurane, an inhalant anesthetic, to maintain anesthesia in dogs and cats. Isoflurane has a great safety profile, and, because it is a gas, once we turn the anesthetic machine “off,” the animal is awake within minutes.

Secondly, we have some pretty cool monitoring equipment available now. End-tidal CO2 monitors measure the carbon dioxide expelled with every breath.  They’re an early warning system if your pet isn’t breathing properly. Pulse oximeters clip to the animal’s tongue or ear and measure the percentage of oxygen in the bloodstream and the patient’s heart rate. Blood-pressure monitors help us watch for hypotension.  All these monitors have alarms and allow us to detect trends before the patient has an anesthetic emergency.   I suggest you always ask what  monitoring is offered before your pet undergoes any anesthesia.

Pre-anesthetic screening is available for both dogs and cats. It is commonly offered at most veterinary clinics. I highly recommend it. The cost varies with the number of tests run, but it is quite affordable. It helps us screen for anemia or organ disease that might make an anesthetic more dangerous, and also gives us values that serve as a baseline in the future, for wellness testing.

I strongly feel that giving intravenous fluids during surgery or dentistry is important. The administration of fluids helps maintain adequate blood pressures, gives the anesthetist an intravenous access for drug administration should an emergency arise and helps the animal wake up more quickly. It also helps prevent that nasty post-anesthetic hangover. (I’ve had this and it felt terrible.)

Anesthetics are relatively safe, and the chance of complications is low, so don’t let the fear of anesthetic death deter you from choosing dentistry or surgery for your dog or cat. With the proper precautions, the chance of things going wrong is very small.

Q: Acknowledging that our problem may not be a veterinary visit requirement, I was compelled to write. How we can keep our dog Charlie from jumping up when friends arrive?

A: First of all, I would like to clarify that behavioural problems in pets are a good reason to visit your vet.

You may not know this, but veterinarians receive considerable schooling in animal behaviour. Some even specialize in this; a dog or cat psychiatrist so to speak. Dog trainers are another great resource.

There are some training techniques you can use to make Charlie better behaved. What we are going to do is teach Charlie that he will no longer get attention for jumping up. He needs to “sit” and “look” instead, in order to get what he wants.

For the next couple of weeks, feed him his kibble from your hands, piece-by-piece, rather than from a bowl. Hold a piece of kibble above his nose and slowly move it backwards over his head. He will have to sit in order to be able to see it. Say “Charlie, sit” while you are holding the kibble near his nose. As soon as he sits, say “good sit” and release the kibble into his mouth. Repeat the exercise until you have fed him his entire meal by hand.

Once he has the hang of the sit command, teach Charlie to “look” at you. First have him sit. Then, say “Charlie, look” or “Charlie, look at me” while you bring the kibble to your face. Once the kibble is close to the top of your nose (between your eyes) and Charlie is looking there, give it to him and say “good look.” Repeat the “sit” and “look” exercise over and over for each piece of kibble.

Ignore Charlie whenever he jumps or barks. Once he has stopped on his own, ask him to “sit” and “look.” This will teach him that the only way he will get attention is to sit and look at your face attentively and quietly.

The third step is to teach Charlie to “sit” and “look” whenever someone comes to the door. Both of you need to have some kibble. One can ring the doorbell from outside. The other asks Charlie to “sit” and “look.” Once Charlie is quietly doing that, reward him. Whoever is outside can then come inside and ask Charlie to “sit” and “look.” Repeat the exercise until he has received all of his breakfast as a reward for “sitting” and “looking” instead of barking and jumping.

Next, ask a friend or neighbour to help. They are to ask Charlie to “sit” and “look” once they get in the door, and give him food rewards for doing so. For the next while, try to supply visitors with some kibble before they come over. You can leave some in a Ziploc bag by the front door, to use once they get inside the house. After a while, you can substitute petting and praise for food.

Please, always ignore (don’t punish) bad behaviour and only give Charlie attention for getting it right. Ask your friends and family to do the same. I predict that in a short time, you will have the best behaved dog on the block.

Studies tell us that dogs and cats that have regular dental cleanings live 2-3 years longer than those that don’t. It makes sense, if you think about it.

Gingivitis (infection in the gums) and periodontal disease (infection in the bone around tooth roots) are caused by bacteria hiding in plaque and calculus. These bacteria can spread via the blood to your pets’ liver, kidneys and heart. There, they can multiply and cause organ damage.

Pets with bad teeth don’t have the best quality of life. Their teeth hurt when they chew their food, or when they lie on their sides. Walking around with a mouth full of pus and bacteria is not only gross, but it’s also bad for you.

Pets age 6-7 years for every human year. If they have their teeth cleaned every 5 years, it’s the same as you and I neglecting our teeth for 35 years!

Having your pets’ teeth cleaned is not a cosmetic procedure. It helps prevent oral discomfort, pain and suffering, and it helps your pet stay healthy.

Please make sure your dog and cat gets a physical exam at least once yearly. Senior pets should have check-ups every 6 months. Look inside your pet’s mouth on a regular basis, and call your vet if you notice brown teeth, red gums, or bad breath.

Regular dental cleanings will not only improve your animal’s breath, but also help it live longer. If you’ve been delaying, please call and book that appointment today!

Dogs and cats may not be personal trainers and they can’t lead an aerobics class, but they can still be as helpful as exercise machines in helping us lose weight.

Your pet can encourage you to exercise and make walking more enjoyable.  Although friends and relatives can offer support, sometimes they can also be negative or inadvertently sabotage our attempts.  A dog won’t do that.

Fido likes going for walks and will be thrilled to help you with your exercise program.  It’s hard to say no to him when he keeps dragging his leash around the house at the same time each day, or looking expectantly at the front door.  Walking a dog is fun, so it’s seems less like hard work.

 In fact, a Canadian study showed that dog owners actually averaged 300 minutes per week walking.  Canadians without dogs only walk an average of 168 minutes per week.

Our pets can also help us succeed because we want them to be healthy too.  Many dogs and cats are overweight.  If they exercise with us, they’ll trim up as well.  That’s a real source of pride for many pet owners, especially when they bring the animal in for its semi-annual checkup.  Vets love to see their patients achieve a healthy weight.

Don’t have a dog?  Your cat needs exercise too.  You can spend 20 minutes each day playing with your cat.  Toss Fluffy’s food for her to chase, rather than letting her eat from a bowl. Tie a “tail” around your waste for Oscar to hunt and pounce as you do housework (that burns calories for both of you!).   Or provide a Tricky Treat Ball to stimulate activity and dispense favorite treats. 

But, before you rush out to buy a tracksuit for your four-legged friend, there are a few considerations to make sure everyone stays healthy and safe.

First, just like you, your pet may not be ready for the Mini-Marathon.  Go easy at first. For some very obese dogs, you might begin with simply walking to the end of the block, then gradually working up to longer distances. 

Don’t put your pet at risk for sports injuries such as ruptured cruciate ligaments. Respect your pet’s limits.  Allow Fido time to build strength and stamina. 

Not all pets are equally suited to the same level of exercise.  For example, some dogs can run with their owners, whereas others are best kept at a walk.  Be sure to tailor your exercise plan to your dog’s physical and athletic abilities.

Don’t forget the appropriate diet!  For overweight pets, a reducing diet from your veterinarian is best.  For animals in peak condition, there are special performance diets to provide the right level of nutrients.

Be sure you and your pet get a physical exam before starting any weight loss or exercise program.  Your veterinarian can advise you on a safe weight loss and exercise program for your pet. 

Lifestyle changes mean more people and pets are sedentary than ever, and more are obese as a result.  Hopefully the New Year and your pet’s company will give you the incentive to get you both in better health, whether you’re looking to lose weight, or simply to increase your fitness level.

I’m hoping our clients will upload pictures of their pets or start discussions.

I’m still trying to figure out all the bells and whistles of Facebook. I’m not really sure if we’re better off being a Group, or a Page, or both. Maybe someone can let me know!

Regular business hours begin on Monday January 4th 2009

So why is it that we’re still euthanizing millions of dogs and cats in North America every year? Why are pets still being abandoned in unacceptably high numbers? And why are we having a problem with feral cats?

Many people really love their cats and take good care of them. They feed them, house them, spay and neuter them, and take them to the vet regularly.

Unfortunately, for every one of these cats, there are many more unlucky ones. No one knows for sure, but it’s estimated that the number of feral cats out there equals or even exceeds the number of owned cats.

Feral cats are not the same as “stray” cats. Strays used to be someone’s pet but have been abandoned. Strays will approach us and want to be petted. Feral cats are the offspring of un-neutered strays. Since they’re not used to humans, they’re afraid of us and can’t be tamed.

It’s been said that one female and one male cat can produce up to 420,000 offspring within 7 years. Since cats can have three to five litters per year and up to 10 kittens per litter, it’s an exponential population explosion when they’re not spayed or neutered.

The traditional approach to feral and stray cats has been to catch them and take them to local shelters. If they’re healthy and have the right personality, they might find a new home. Sadly, far more are put to death. There just aren’t enough homes for all these cats (nor dogs who end up at the pound).

Euthanasia is the number one cause of death of cats in Canada and the U.S. According to a National
Council on Pet Population Study and Policy Shelter Statistics survey, 72% of cats who end up in North American shelters are killed. Feral cats have it much worse, since they don’t make good pets and they’re usually unsuitable for adoption.

I don’t call that civilized, do you? It’s depressing, and costly to taxpayers.

Fortunately, there are organizations such as Grand River All Breed Rescue (www.grandriverallbreedrescue.ca), Toronto Cat Rescue, and Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) that are trying a different approach. Alley Cat Allies states “cats choose to reside in locations for two reasons: there’s a food source, intended or not, and shelter.” They feel that feral cats are better off outdoors than at an Animal Control pound. As an alternative to euthanasia, which doesn’t shrink cat colonies because new cats just move in once one is gone, rescuers catch feral cats and take them to a veterinarian to be spayed or neutered. They then release them back where they were trapped. The cats remain in the colony but are now unable to breed.

Volunteers then make sure these outdoor cats have food and shelter, and monitor their health.

Some people don’t think that the Trap-Neuter-Release (T-N-R) program is the best solution to feral cats. They feel these cats pose a health risk to humans and reduce songbird populations. Others think that T-N-R doesn’t make a realistic impact of the number of homeless cats. I’m not sure what the answer is, but I do know we have a horrible problem with unwanted pets and that something has to be done about it.

What can you do to help stray and feral cats? Support local rescue groups by donating funds to the cause. Spay and neuter your pet. And finally, if you need to relinquish your animal, don’t just abandon it. Have the decency to take it to a shelter, rather than leaving it freeze, starve, or add to the pet overpopulation problem.

Why does my dog do this and how can I get her to stop? I’m not a fan of hitting animals or yelling at them after the fact but I’m at my wits end. I would like to leave her out and be able to trust her but nothing seems to work.

It sounds like your pooch has Separation Anxiety.  This is a common behaviour problem in dogs, especially in those that are very bonded to their owners.  In your boxer’s case, it’s unlikely she has a problem with housebreaking.  In fact, you’ve done a great job in training her, from what you’ve described.

Dogs with separation anxiety miss their owners and do ‘bad” things to reduce their distress.  It’s similar to someone biting their nails when they’re nervous.  These dogs might pee and poo in the house, or they might chew things they’re not supposed to.

I agree you should not hit her or yell at her. Punishment induces fear in animals.  They rarely know why you’re mad at them, and it’s hard for them to learn when they’re upset.  Also, it may result in nervousness that will only result in more behavioural problems.

I can’t give you individual advice, but perhaps I can speak about Separation Anxiety in general.  Some of the recommendations on treating this disorder include:

1/  Do not allow your dog to become excited when you’re about to leave the house.  Don’t make a big deal about the fact that you’re going out.  You’re best to ignore her entirely for half an hour or so before your departure.  That’s because most dogs with Separation Anxiety engage in the undesired behaviour within the first hour after their owners leave.  If you don’t let her get wound up, she won’t have to let off steam by eliminating in the house.  It sounds mean to leave without saying good-bye, but many cases of Separation Anxiety are cured by this one simple step.

2/  Some dogs know when their owners are due to come home, so they misbehave around that time instead.  So, it’s also a good idea to ignore your dog for the first 15-20 minutes that you’re first home.  You can say hello after that.

3/  It’s really helpful to give her a special toy she only gets when you’re out.  For example, a Kong stuffed with peanut butter.  Don’t give it to her at any other time, so she really values it when she’s offered it.  Now she’ll have something to keep her occupied while you’re away.

4/  Talk to your veterinarian about counter-conditioning..  This is a method of training where you pair a stimulus with another event.  For example, you’ll teach her that turning the radio on signifies a short departure.  Then, when she’s made that association, you can use it for times you’re out for longer periods of time and she’ll think you’re coming right back.

5/  If the suggestions above don’t help, there are medications your veterinarian can prescribe for the short term, to enable the learning process.  Some dogs need to have their anxiety dampened before they’re able to learn what you’re trying to teach.

I recommend talking to your veterinarian about your dog’s behaviour.  We’ve learned about treatment of problems such as this in medical school.  Your vet is your best source for pet care information. She or he can give you specific advice for your dog and your situation.

Here are some links to a few great articles on this topic:

1/ article one
2/ article two
3/article three